The grand and baroque cemetery chapel of San Joaquin, Iloilo

The old cemetery chapels located in the camposanto built during the Spanish colonial era is one of the interesting religious heritage structures in the country. Unfortunately, many don’t have the focus they deserve. Only a few remain that still exists in the Philippines and their deterioration continues to this day.

This Top 10 list is a good start and that Filipinos should visit or be aware of. This listing is in no way complete as there are still some places that I have to visit but do note that this list covers cemetery chapels found outside of Metro Manila. Unfortunately, I haven’t found any cemetery chapels in Mindanao. Another note, this doesn’t include mortuary chapels which are found beside or infront of the church.

This is my entry for the Pinoy Travel Bloggers’s blog carnival hosted by The Pinay Solo Backpacker.

1 San Joaquin, Iloilo
Perhaps one of the most beautiful in the country, the cemetery chapel in San Joaquin, Iloilo is a head turner as one passes by the highway. A gated entrance leads to a grand staircase and on to this beautiful baroque structure that always awes visitors.

The cemetery chapel of Cabatuan, Iloilo has stylized bas relief

2 Cabatuan, Iloilo
Cabatuan in Iloilo is known mostly for its massive and beautiful church with a retablos made of sandstone. But few know that its cemetery chapel along the highway has one of the most stylized skull and cross bones in mortuary art during the Spanish colonial period. More info and images here.

Tabaco City cemetery chapel in Albay is unique for its construction material

3 Tabaco City, Albay
The cemetery chapel in Tabaco City is one of the well preserved structures in the Bicol region. It uses black lava stones abundant in the area, similar to the construction material of the old church. It has interesting bas relief details at its facade.

Tayabas's Santuario de las almas

4 Tayabas, Quezon
The Santuario de las almas in Tayabas is one of two cemetery chapel found in the municiaplity. This beautiful structure is one of the biggest in the country and where Spaniards and Filipino elites were used to be interred. Though located a few hundred meters from the basilica, it faces it directly.

Tayabas cemetery chapel in Quezon is unique with its twin towers and architectural style

5 Tayabas, Quezon
The cemetery chapel in Tayabas, Quezon is interesting as it is one of a few chapels with twin belfries, similar to Lucban, in the same province, which is now in ruins. What makes it more interesting is the use of Gothic architectural style which is represented by the trefoil pediment reminiscent of Lucban church and the lancet blind niche, central niche and entrance.

Nagcarlan's cemetery chapel done in the baroque style

6 Nagcarlan, Laguna
Nagcarlan in Laguna is famous for its underground cemetery, the only public catacomb in the country. Like the simbaan a bassit in Vigan, it has an espadana at the top serving as its pediment, a pair of blind oculi and a central niche. It is also the highlight of a circular cemetery.

Vigan's Simbaan a bassit in Vigan City, Ilocos Sur

7 Simbaan a bassit, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur
Historic Vigan City is admired for its old structures and one of these is the cemetery chapel also called Simbaan a bassit. Done in the neoclassical style and adorned with a pair of volutes at the side (a baroque style) and some floral details, its the only one that has an espadana (top part where the bells are hung) in the Ilocos region.

The Calamba cemetery chapel in Cebu City is unique for its beautiful and unusual bas relief of death

8 Calamba, Cebu City
Of the cemetery chapels listed here, its only the Calamba chapel that has been refurbished and renovated badly with the front added with a badly designed portico and the lower portion cemented. This chapel is interesting for its bas relief located at the center of the pediment. It shows death with a scythe, crowned and holding an hour glass which readily drives down to men his mortality.

The quaint baroque cemetery chapel of Laoag City

9 Laoag City, Ilocos Norte
Tucked in one of the least visited places in Laoag City (well, except during 1 November), the cemetery chapel of this city is one of the bigger ones but quaint and built in subdued baroque style. Like Saravia, it is one of the few intact brick cemetery chapel in the country.

Saravia's cemetery chapel with brick facade

10 E.B. Magalona, Negros Occidental
E.B. Magalona, formerly Saravia, in Negros Occidental has a beautiful cemetery chapel that is located near the highway. Of the many places I’ve visited, it is one of the very few brick structure that has an intact facade that I have seen. However, the interior has been renovated already and the roof has been replaced. More info here.

The cemetery chapel as it looked in July 1986. Note the tejas (tiles) for its roofing

A Simbahan reader, Handel Advento sent me an email together with impressive images of the then Oton cemetery chapel prior to its renovation in 21 October 1997. I was awe struck with its beauty and antiquity, a far cry from what we see now. Handel wrote:

Here are the photos of the Oton cemetery chapel taken around July 1986. A simple camera was used for these shots so I hope you understand the low quality. The chapel just caught my interest along the way to somewhere else and we simply stopped to take pictures.

He continues:

The inscription as seen in your photos now was actually on the right side entrance of the chapel (if you’re facing the front), and there was no inscription on the main entrance at that time. It was also very faded and hardly discernable.

The biggest surprise to me was the tile roof. What struck me when I first saw it was its similarity to the chapel housing Magellan’s Cross in Cebu… And there were no block-like marks on the walls. The whole structure really had the mark of antiquity at that time.

Unfortunately, the tile roofing was removed and thrown away and those block like marks etched, like what we find in most ill defined restoration projects we see around the country. From the main photo, we can actually infer that this chapel really had three portals with the two found at its sides. These portals had the same column, finial and skull and cross bones decoration. As Handel pointed out, these portals also had inscriptions. Probably, during the renovation, they closed the two side entrances.

My gratitude to Handel Advento for this important images and information.

Photo credits: Handel Advento/Maximilius Tuason

Facade of the antique brick cemetery chapel in Saravia (E. B. Magalona), Negros Occidental

Compared with the elaborate cemetery chapels of Iloilo like in Cabatuan, Saravia’s cemetery chapel (the municipality was renamed to E. B. Magalona, but people still use the old name) is a simple brick construction found at the back end of the cemetery square. It consists of a simple arched entrance and two side windows all with metal grills. Decorative elements are limited to the simple columns that tend to fade into the background.

The pediment is at the second level with a pair of columnar finials serving as base of an elaborate metal cross. The center, I presume, might have a bigger metal cross but is now supplanted with one made of wood. The overall vertical movement of the facade gives it height.

The interior is already renovated and the roofing replaced with galvanized iron sheets. At both side walls, modern niches were being constructed by carving out the walls.

The old cemetery chapel of Sarabia, Negros Occidental

Sandwiched between the cities of Victorias and Silay in Negros Occidental is the town of Saravia (now known as E. B. Magalona, after a senator who hails from this place). The church is a modern construction but one notable structure that readily caught my attention is its Spanish colonial era cemetery, a legacy of the Augustinian Recollects who took charge of the spiritual administration of this municipality and island.

The old cemetery isn’t hard to miss as it’s just along the national highway but I wasn’t expecting this one that I nearly passed it unnoticed as the bus sped its way. But really, I’m impressed. It is still complete: a cemetery chapel built at the backside with two levels of niches spanning the length of the back in line with the facade. A newer level of niches was then added. At its entrance, the cemetery arch still exist with its perimeter fence and beautiful iron grills. The structures are built with mortar and bricks.

The old and beautiful chapel in the middle of the cemetery

At the old Catholic cemetery or camposanto in Roxas City is a beautiful antique structure with an elegant entrance that dates back to the Spanish colonial era. The octagonal cemetery chapel, built at the center, was constructed by the Augustinian Fray Apolinar Alvarez (died 2 May 1885) who was parish priest of the town formerly known as Capiz. No specific dates were given from my source, Pedro Galende’s Angels in Stone. The friar was also credited with building the present Roxas City cathedral in 1870.

The structure, made from cut coral stones, has a single entrance. It’s facade has simple bas reliefs and decorative columns. Curiously, I haven’t found any skull and crossbones motif like in Cabatuan or contextual inscriptions like in Oton, both in Iloilo. At the sides and back, several niches have been built with most are used. The roof is in the form of an elongated dome topped by a finial with parts of it overgrown with vegetation.

Upon entering, several more niches are found, all modern. A columned altar topped with a triangular pediment can be found at the opposite end of the entrance. I’m not sure if this was built concurrently with the chapel but the architectural style echoes that of the cemetery entrance. One thing that really caught my attention was how thick the walls are, exceeding a meter in length.

Facade of the entrance arch and gate with columns, finials and skull and cross bones bas relief

While on my way to take a photo of Dumalag Church in Capiz, I was able to pass by the beautiful camposanto or cemetery located at the south of the present church and along the highway. What made this a discovery was that, it is the third circular cemetery that I’ve seen, rather rare in the Philippines, bounded by a wall made from cut stone, an entrance gate with arch and a ruined chapel at the other end. Other circular cemeteries are Paco in Manila and Nagcarlan in Laguna.

Located at a plain and surrounded by rice fields, the structure was built by Fray Angel Abasalo, an Augustinian who served as the parish priest of the town from 1866-1881. He was also the one who constructed (or reconstructed) the current church. The entrance gate with arch, unfortunately is fronted by a waiting shed just a few feet that hinders a good view of the facade. The entrance is flanked by two columns, two finials atop this column and a pediment with a bas relief of a skull and crossbones at the center.

Inside, niches are built into the circular walls and a modern chapel at the center. At the opposite end of the gate is the original chapel, now in ruins. The facade is very simple topped with a triangular pediment. The walls and facade, by the way is coated with cement.

The back of the "kumbento"

Thanx to Jobers Bersales, some Cebu archival images (scans) from the Ahlborn Collection was made available to me. Part of the collection are black and white images of Oslob Church, the mortuary chapel and the kumbento.

The kumbento photo shows the back, as seen from the nave, with its intact lower walls and, probably, tabique pampango upper walling. Compare this with the fourth image in my kumbento post and you can see very well the changes that have been implemented. Take note of the hollow block and new window in the lower part as well sa the cemented portions of the upper part. While the sliding capiz windows are still as is, the back windows, as seen in the sixth image has already been changed. Do note that after the fire of march 2008, the kumbento was razed to the ground.

Mortuary chapel that was labeled as armory.

The mortuary chapel located infront of the church is still existing until now. However, comparing the archival photo and the current structure, much has changed. The old image still has the original tejas (tiles) roofing, ableit, in bad condition, and the four walls the present one only has the facade and finials present.

Gospel side of the church showing the damaged portion of the pyramidal dome as a result of the 1955 fire

This photo is particularly interesting. Here, the pyramidal dome is still being constructed. Note that the church also got burned in 1955, due to unknown reasons, and here, about 10 years later, it is still not finished. You can see the finished dome in this post that existed prior to the March 2008 fire.

The rest of the images shows the facade as well as portions of the perimeter fence.

The Richard Ahlborn Collection (c. 1965) is a photographic survey of Filipino-Hispanic religious structures and art, specifically Spanish colonial era churches and artifacts. It consists of 568 black and white negatives and prints made by Abbye A Gorin and Harriet Blum which is now deposited in the Latin American Library of Tulane University in New Orleans, Louisiana. The photo archive spans various islands and provinces in the country: Bohol, Cebu, Albay, Bataan, Batangas, Bulacan, Cavite, Ilocos Norte, Ilocos Sur, Laguna, La Union, Pampanga, Pangasinan, Rizal, Sorsogon, Zambales, Negros Occidental and Iloilo.

From Richard E. Ahlborn (1933- ) Collection, c. 1965

The domed octagonal cemetery of Tabaco is impressive with its architecture. Black volcanic stone is used, just like the cathedral.

Extant mortuary chapels in the country are hard to find except maybe if you are in the province of Iloilo where there are a few excellent examples. However, beyond that province and Cebu, there are also scattered across the rest of the regions but not all and I haven’t seen one from Mindanao. During my travels, I was able to find some that are now posted here.

Not all towns and cities have them as only the more affluent ones were able to build these. Typically, these cemetery chapels are either found at the center, some are at the back end and an exception seems to be the Simbaan a Bassit which, other than located at the front, it has the only working espadaña, architectural feature where the bells are hung at the pediment, in the region. Nagcarlan is beautiful with its circular cemetery like Paco in Manila (not shown here), sports an espadaña and has a catacomb, the only one that I’ve seen.

Lucban and Tayabas surprised me with its twin belfries. While the former is in ruins, the latter is still in working condition and made me smile because of the gothic architecture (lancet portal & trefoil). Still in Tayabas, the Santuario de las Almas is huge compared to the other chapels.

Cabatuan, San Joaquin, Miag-ao all in Iloilo and Tabaco City in Albay have their own octagonal chapels of which San Joaquin is the most impressive. Tabaco’s is also stunning because of its dark volcanic stones. These two are domed.

Lastly, Sta. Maria in Ilocos Sur looks impressive but it’s difficult to ascertain as it is already in ruins. The one in Malabon, Metro Manila has only its lower part extant and is also in ruins. Both were constructed by the Augustinians and are located just near the main church.

The mortuary chapel in Calamba, Cebu City is notable for its stylized skeleton relief that finds no parallel in Cebu.

The cemetery and mortuary chapels in Cebu are not as grand as those in Iloilo and are in different degrees of condition with most having been renovated and one in near collapse. For purposes of identification, I should clarify the two: cemetery chapels are those structures that are within the cemetery perimeter. It was in the 19th century that churches complied with the king’s edict to relocate these away from churches. In more affluent towns, these burial places were fenced and a chapel was built either at the center or at the far end. The mortuary chapel are structures that were built typically within the church compound either beside it or infront. It was where masses were said or a wake was held.

In the island province of Cebu, the presence of these structures are quite rare and are usually concentrated in areas that were under the Augustinian order. In this post, I have included those that can be found only in Cebu City (Calamba), Oslob, Boljoon, Sibonga, Argao and Dalaguete.

The mortuary chapel in Calamba, Cebu City is impressive because it has the most stylized skeleton relieve anywhere else in Cebu.

Built in 1863, the cemetery chapel of Calamba is the only extant structure in Cebu City and it originally belonged to the parish of San Nicolas. Of all the structures found in Cebu, it has the most stylized and biggest skeleton relief found at its pediment. It has a crown on its head, a staff in its right hand and at its left, holding a box containing an hourglass.

There used to be a small bell atop it. Below the pediment, you have this array of skull and crossbones and at the top side of the portal is a pair of skull and crossbone medallions. A floral rosette (or is this a stylized wheel?) can be found at the sides. The date of completion is etched atop the door. This structure is built at the center of the cemetery but unfortunately, an ugly canopy that doesn’t harmonize with the architecture was added infront.

Dalaguete cemetery chapel in ruins

Dalaguete mortuary chapel beside the church

Located at the backside of the cemetery, the one in Dalaguete (left) is a ruined structure. Its roofless with debris and human bones scattered at its floor. It has a very simple facade. A finial is located atop a rounded pediment. No relieves are found.

The mortuary chapel on the other hand (right), located just beside the church, is quite impressive and doesn’t look like one. At first, I thought that this was a stylized belen (nativity scenes during Christmas) but at the back of the structure is a skull and cross bones relief. The facade originally have impressive carvings detailed with symbolism of the church, Christ and the Augustinian Order but because of the deterioration, they covered the parts with cement. Now, the rich details located below the fascia can no longer be seen.

Sibonga cemetery chapel

The cemetery chapel is located at the center but it is in such bad condition that it is in danger of collapsing. Vegetation has grown on almost all the external parts and if this will not be addressed, the roots will further weaken the stones. It is another different style, the only one with a dome. Curiously, it has two entrances at both facing sides.

Like in Dalaguete, open coffins with one still bearing a dried out corpse and bones are scattered at its floor. Niches have been filled and some have been enlarged to accommodate the bigger sizes of modern coffins. It’s a very much neglected structure.

Oslob cemetery chapel

Oslob mortuary chapel infront of the church

Oslob is one of three municipalities in Cebu that have both cemetery and mortuary chapels. The cemetery chapel is located at the back end of the cemetery and it’s form resembles that of Argao. However, niches have crept infront of it and a canopy was cemented that now mars and hides the architectural details of this structure.

The mortuary chapel is located infront of the church. It has the skeleton with a staff and hourglass relief at its pediment. Only the facade remains as part of the original structure.

Argao cemetery chapel

Argao mortuary chapel infront of the church

The cemetery chapel of Argao (left) is located at the far end. When I first saw this in 2005, it was in ruins with the roof caved. When I came back this year, I was surprised and happy to see that they have restored it.

The mortuary chapel, on the other hand (right) was recently “rediscovered.” It is a beautiful structure that has wonderful details at its facade and, like the cemetery chapel, has a relief of St. Michael. There used to be a structure infront of it that hid this chapel and with a revitalized tourism effort in the municipality, they have torn it down. I just hope that they will eventually clean the vegetation growing at the pediment. As romantic as it may seem it does weaken the structure and the roots will eventually damage the stones. A more detailed post can be found at the Cebu Cathedral blog.

The chapel located a few meters infront of the Oslob church.

Detail of relief atop the chapel On 26 March 08, an 8 hour fire gutted the more than a century old kumbento (parish house) and church of Oslob in Cebu. What was left were the thick stone walls and belfry as well as an icon of the parish patron. This is my tribute to this beautiful and historic church with photos taken in 2005, 2006 and 2008. This is the 12th installment of a series.

Facing directly infront of the Oslob church is an old chapel that is used as a prayer room. Its facade is simple. No elaborate decorations or inscriptions. It only has three pairs of decorative columns topped by tuscan capitals. on each side of the pediment are two pedestal-like finials that might have held a vase or urn before. At the center is a relief image. Made from cut coral stones, it is a testament to its age. The current structure is modern except for the facade which is still original.

There is one curious detail that might indicate its original use before: left, atop it’s pediment is a carved relief of a skeleton holding a staff on its right hand while the left is holding some kind of a goblet. Underneath it is a rectangular depression that might have held some wooden board with an inscription.

Was this chapel originally a mortuary chapel? Does this predate the current cemetery fenced by Fray Mauricio Alvarez in the latter half of the nineteenth century? If so, does it mean that the original cemetery was found at the front of the church? Of the two sources that I have, nothing has been mentioned about this one.