I made it to the cover: San Sebastian Minor Basilica in the June 2010 issue of Bluprint Magazine

In the June 2010 issue of Bluprint Magazine, my images of San Sebastian Minor Basilica made it to the cover as well as main feature entitled: Prefab Gothic Revival: Saving the All-Steel San Sebastian Basilica in Manila. The article is written by Tina Paterno, a New York based conservator, who is in the country spearheading, as project head, the restoration of this stunning and historic edifice.

The author details the history of San Sebastian, which took a decade to design and execute from 1881 – 1891 under the auspices of the Augustinian Recollects. This was made possible due to one man, Genaro Palacios where a plaque bearing his name is inscribed at the floor near the entrance.

However, Tina also focuses on the often unseen problems of this structure. Foremost is the alarming corrosion of the metal structure that is not noticed by visitors and parishioners. As one looks closely, rust has eaten some parts of the steel panels. Warping has afflicted some sections and already, 36 kilos of metal have fallen.

Not only that, water has leaked. The beautiful trompe l’oeil at the choirloft, transept dome, pendentives and at the walls near the altar is slowly damaged as the steel panels continue to deteriorate. For Tina, these are just from the outside. She is more concerned of the condition of the unseen steel trusses.

This article is thus timely and important in order to raise awareness and galvanize support not only within the parish of San Sebastian but also with heritage advocates and ordinary Filipinos. In the next few months, detailed study and assessment will be conducted to give a real picture of the extent of deterioration and recommend appropriate action.

The San Sebastian Minor Basilica in Manila is a national treasure, a Philippine National Historical Landmark since 1973 and is listed in the World Monuments Fund under the Watchlist 2010 of Cultural Heritage at Risk.

Bluprint is monthly magazine, a design sourcebook published by the Mega Publishing Group. This month’s issue is on Sacred Spaces and includes other religious architecture found in the country.

The steel columns and fan vault of the beautiful Minor Basilica of San Sebastian

San Sebastian is a gem, a unique edifice that is said to be the only all-steel church in Asia. The soaring spires seem to reach out to the heavens as this neo gothic structure is just so impossible to miss. Inside, the fan vaulting is mesmerizing.

For around two weeks last April, I’ve documented this basilica, photographing the myriad and interesting details, the trompe l’oeil, the stunning stained glass and many more. I also got alarmed with the deterioration and rust that is slowly creeping and probably affecting its steel material.

Those two weeks are still not enough. I still have to take images of the deterioration, the details of the exterior as well as the tombstones found inside. Once these are finished, I then need to check the documentation, articles and books published on this structure. Archival images aren’t hard to find though.

Once all these are finished, I can then start posting about this magnificent church. Do stay tuned in the coming months as Simbahan.net brings you one of the Philippine’s magnificent churches. Check out my posts in estancabigas.com where I have some sample images.

Download and print this free Visita Iglesia in Manila guide!

Sample page showing the featured churches. CLICK TO ENLARGE.

This is a series focusing on the Manila Visita Iglesia that can be followed as a guide for the much observed Filipino Catholic Lenten tradition. Click the image at the right to access other churches in other provinces.

A free downloadable and printable PDF guide is now available for those who would want to do the traditional visita iglesia in Manila! This freebie features the remaining eight still existing Spanish colonial era churches in the historic city, either wholly built or with it’s façade intact. This feature initially appeared in this post.

Sample page showing a map where the churches are located. CLICK TO ENLARGE

The following churches are featured:
• Malate Church
• San Agustin Church
• Manila Metropolitan Cathedral
• Tondo Church
• Binondo Minor Basilica
• Quiapo Minor Basilica
• San Sebastian Minor Basilica, and
• Sta. Ana Church

Each church is illustrated with a beautiful image accompanied with a short write up about its history. What makes this guide very useful is that it includes a numbered map!

This is a series focusing on the Manila Visita Iglesia that can be followed as a guide for the much observed Filipino Catholic Lenten tradition. Click the image at the right to access the rest of the posts.

Manila was the capital city of what was then known during the Spanish colonial period as the province of Tondo. It was established under the command of Miguel Lopez de Legaspi in 1571 over the remnants of Rajah Soliman’s kingdom. Most important of its area is Intramuros, a citadel where Spain’s colony was administered. Within it’s walls the major religious orders built their churches. Outside were also constructed several religious edifices to attend to the spiritual needs of parishioners. This visita iglesia in Manila series features eight of the important churches within this historic city.

Our Lady of Remedies Church, Malate

1 Malate was formerly known as Maalat, derived from the salty waters near it which the Spaniards later corrupted to the current word form. The first church was constructed by the Augustinians in 1588 under the protection and care of the Nuestra Señora de los Remedios or the Our Lady of Remedies whose miraculous image was brought in 1624 from Andalucia, Spain.

Upon orders of Governor-General Sabiniano Manrique de Lara, it was destroyed in 1661 over fears of an attack by the pirate Li Ma Hong but rebuilt in 1677-79.

In 1762, it was made the headquarters of the British during their brief invasion of Manila. In 1864, it was rebuilt for the third time after the great earthquake of 1863 that destoyed many other churches.

The façade is said to be a blend of Muslim and Baroque architectural styles, one of the impressive ones in Manila. Unfortunately, because the paletada has been scraped off the surface, wearing and deterioration has been apparent with two of it’s emblelishments, the two heart relieves at the side of the main portal disintegrating.

Historic San Agustin Church in Intramuros is the oldest religious structure in the country.

2 San Agustin Church in Intramuros is the mother of all churches in the country. It was constructed in 1587 and finished in 1604. This church has survived earthquakes, fires, typhoons and when Manila was bombed out by the Americans to flush out the Japanese in World War II, the second most destroyed city in the world after Warsaw in Poland, it was the only structure left standing in Intramuros suffering a gaping hole in what is now the Chapel of Legazpi and a damaged bell tower.

The left belfry was torn down by Spanish authorities after it posed a security risk for passersby after it cracked in the 1880 earthquake. The interior offers a peek of the richness of religious edifices in times past with its stunning trompe l’oeil, beautiful 17th century pulpit and intricately carved portals make it one of the must see churches in the country.

The church and the monastery complex is the only remaining example of its kind in the Philippines. The titular patron of San Agustin church is the Conversion of St. Paul. During the pre-war period, it was one of seven major churches within the walls that people come for the visita iglesia.

For more information on this church, I have prepared a 24 part series that details it’s exterior and interior.

The Manila Cathedral was built seven times in its history.

3 The Manila Cathedral, the ecclesiastical seat of the Archdiocese of Manila is just one of two surviving churches that can still be found in Intramuros.

It was first built in 1581 made from nipa and bamboo. In it’s 428 years of history, it has been destroyed by fire, typhoon, earthquakes and the last World War but always rising from the ashes.

After World War II, only the walls and façade stood. The current structure, the 8th, was built between 1954 and 1958 over the remnants. Even now, one can still see some of the original portion at the choirloft.

It was elevated to a minor basilica by Pope John Paul II during his Manila visit in 1981 and is dedicated to the Immaculate Conception.

The architecture is a blend of Romanesque-Byzantine with Baroque elements that typifies many Philippine Spanish colonial era churches in the country. It’s main portal feature bronze relieves that depict its construction history.

The church of Tondo is dedicated to the Sto. Nino de Cebu.

4 Tondo was the first city of the province with the same name and the church’s convent was one of the first few in Luzon having been accepted by the Augustinian friars in 1572. It is under the protection of the Sto. Niño de Cebu.

The first stone church was believed to have been finished in 1625. It got damaged in 1641 during the Chinese revolt and by an earthquake in 1645. In 1661, together with Malate Church, it was torn down upon orders of Governor-General de Lara due to fears of an invasion by the Chinese pirate Li Ma Hong (or Koxinga) from Formosa (now Taiwan). It was rebuilt later that year.

The current stone church, the third to be built was started after the earthquake of 1863 damaged the previous one. It is the first church in the country to use steel framing for the media naranja or dome and iron sheets for the roofing that were imported from England.

The façade of the church is done in the neoclassical style flanked by twin belltowers.

San Sebastian Minor Basilica is the first and only steel church in Asia

5 The Minor Basilica of San Sebastian is a sight to behold. Its towering spires, soaring high into the heavens, and impressive neo-gothic architecture sends one to ecstasy.

The current structure, the national shrine to the Our Lady of Mt. Carmel, was built by the Augustinian Recollects in 1893 after the one made of stone was destroyed by an earthquake. It’s first church was built in the middle of the 17th century.

The iron sheets and panels were manufactured in Belgium and was assembled by local artists and craftsmen when it arrived in 1888. It’s beautiful stained glass windows were imported from Germany.

The architecture is neo-gothic with those fan vaults and lancet arches. However, because of the material, the intricate details and embellishments in typical architecture is at a minimum.

Quiapo Church is the home of the much revered Black Nazarene icon.

6 Quiapo District was first established in 1586 by Governor-General Santiago de Vera. The Fransciscans erected the first church made of nipa and bamboo under the advocacy of St. John the Baptist.

A fire destroyed the first structure in 1639. It was later rebuilt but this second church was damaged during the 1863 earthquake. While the Franciscans built the first church, later structures were erected by the Seculars.

In 1787, the Archbishop of Manila, Basilio Sancho de Santas Justa y Rufina ordered the transfer of the image of the Black Nazarene that was then enshrined at the Augustinian Recollect’s main church, the San Nicolas de Tolentino, in Intramuros. This transfer or translacion is commemorated every 9 January.

The third church was inaugurated in 1899. In 1928, fire consumed the edifice and was rebuilt with the architect Juan Nakpil in charge of the plans for reconstruction. It was later expanded to its current form sometime in the 80s.

Now known as the Minor Basilica of the Black Nazarene, it is the center of the icon’s devotion in the country.

Binondo Church was built for the Chinese at the Parian

7 Binondo Church was founded by the Dominicans for the spiritual adminsitration of the Christian Chinese.

The first structure was built in 1596 presumably of light materials and was dedicated to San Gabriel. It was rebuilt in stone in 1606. In 1740, it was decided to demolish the old church and build a new one which was inaugurated in 1749 and dedicated to the Nuestra Señora Santissima del Rosario.

The church and its belfry were damaged by the 1863 earthquake. During World War II, bombs were dropped in 1944 and left only a shell of the Church. It was later rebuilt.

According to Pedro Galende, OSA in Philippine Church Façades:

…it’s front and belfry is a fine example of Mexican-Spanish colonial architecture, expressing, as some historians wrote, “the graceful and lively form of the baroque Philippine Style.”

It is now known as the Minor Basilica of San Lorenzo Ruiz as this was where the first Filipino saint lived, worked and grew up.

Sta. Ana Church is the only Manila church with a beautiful and still intact baroque retablo

8Sta. Ana Church
The Franciscans were the first to establish a mission outside the walls of Intramuros in 1578 to better serve the needs of the laity. This is the present town dedicated and named after St. Anne of the Abandoned.

The present church’s cornerstone was laid in 1720 by the Bishop of Manila and acting Governer General of the Philippines that time, Francisco de la Cuesta. It was built under the supervision of Fray Vicente Ingles.

The church is known for its beautiful baroque retablo, the only one of its kind that can be found still intact in Manila. The statue of the Our Lady of the Abandoned is a copy of the original at Valencia, Spain and holds a crystal baton that used to belong to the Governer General, symbolic of his authority and was donated by the Archbishop.

In 1966, the National Museum excavated the inner patio of the church and found a rich horde of artifacts with the oldest, a white and blue ceramic with floral designs dating to the 11th century. This indicates its rich pre-hispanic past.

For purposes of this post, I am featuring the seven major churches of the different religious Orders in Intramuros that existed before WWII. After the war, all but San Agustin was left standing. The Manila Cathedral was rebuilt but the rest never rose again when the Orders abandoned there lots and relocated to other parts of Metro Manila.

San Agustin Church

1 Testament to its solidity and strength of structure, it was only San Agustin that was left standing in the aftermath of World War II.

Considered the Mother of all Churches, construction started in 1587 and was finished in 1607. It is the mother church of the Augustinians.

A more detailed treatment of this church, contained in 24 posts can be found by clicking on the San Agustin tag. You can also go to the start of these posts here.

Manila Cathedral

2 Where else can you find a city in the world where its cathedral was built on the same site seven times?

From its beginnings in the 16th century made of light materials to lofty structures over the centuries destroyed by typhoons, a fire, earthquakes and the last world war, the Manila Cathedral, seat of the Archbishop of Manila (Secular) is like a phoenix that has many times risen from its ashes. The current structure was rebuilt in 1958.

Sto. Domingo Church

3 The Sto. Domingo Church was the fifth to be built on the same site after the fourth was destroyed by the 1863 earthquake, including the Manila Cathedral. Its in the Neo-Gothic/Gothic Revival style and is said to be a literal imitation of the facade of the York Cathedral in England (13th and 14th centuries). It also has one of the beautiful carved main church portal in the country.

The famous image of the Nuestra Senora del Rosario or what is popularly known as the La Naval de Manila is venerated in this church, so named because of the miraculous aide that the Blessed Virgin Mary extended to the Spanish fleet who was victorious over the Dutch in the 17th century. After the war, the Dominicans relocated in Quezon City along Quezon Avenue where the current Sto. Domingo church now stands. The current lot is now occupied by a bank (BPI).

Franciscan Church

4 The Franciscans occupied this site as early as 1577 and dedicated the Franciscan Church to the Nuestra Senora de los Angeles. Perpendicular to it, the Chapel of the Venerable Orden Tercera (VOT or the Venerable Third Order, right).

The Franciscans relocated in Quezon City while the VOT relocated in Sampaloc. The current lot is now occupied by Mapua Institute of Technology.

Augustinian Recollects's Church

5 The pre-war Church and Convent of San Nicolas Tolentino, built in 1881, was the third church to be built by the Recollects on the same site. The second was destroyed in the earthquake of 1863. It has a five tiered belltower and elaborately carved facade.

The Recollects relocated to San Sebastian in Quiapo and the current lot was bought in 1976 by the Manila Bulletin where it built its offices and printing plant.

Right, ruins of the church built before their expulsion; left, new church when they returned to the country

6 The Jesuits before their expulsion in 1768 had their first San Ignacio Church of what is now the location of the Pamantasan Lungsod ng Maynila.

In 1859, they returned to the country but it was only in 1878 that the last San Ignacio Church was started. It was finished in 1889. Done in the Neo-Classical style, it had two flanking towers and an impressive interior done by Filipino artisans. The woodwork done by Isabelo Tampinco is considered to be the height of woodcarving ever achieved in the country. Unfortunately, it was burned by the Japanese during World War II.

The Jesuits relocated in Quezon City and what remained in its present site are the ruins of the church.

Franciscan Capucin Church

7 The Franciscan Capuchins were the last major religious Order to arrive in Intramuros in 1886 and they constructed the Church and Convent of Our Lady of Lourdes in 1891. The church was popular for weddings and first communions but during the war, it sustained heavy damage. Instead of rebuilding it, the Capuchin Fathers relocated in Quezon City.

The site is now occupied by the El Amanecer Building, a shop for arts and crafts.

The beautiful and ancient church of San Agustin

Adobe stones, the building blocks
of San Agustin. Winand Klassen in his book Architecture in the Philippines (1986, USC Cebu City) traces the influences of the architecture of the church and monastery to ancient western design: first, the church two tower entrance facade probably had its roots to the Syrian churches of the 6th century, like the Basilica at Turmanin. This was later adapted in the Romanesque churches of Normandy and later picked up by the Baroque churches in Germany and influenced the Italian Renaissance church architecture of which, the
The back of the church. Church of S. Atanasio dei Greci in Rome is a good example. This church also has a striking resemblance to that of San Agustin.

Second, the author writes that the monastery complex design was probably based on the famous St. Gall Monastery in Switzerland (circa 818) which is considered as “designed to be the ideal.” This plan was later used in later medieval monasteries, first in France and later spread to other parts of Europe. During the Renaissance, the major orders continued to follow the layout and a good example is the Il Gesu of the Jesuits.

Left, Seal like decoration bearing an inscription of Saint Paul whose statue is placed at the niche below it. Middle and right, respectively, details of Ionic and Corinthian columns.

Pedro Galende in his book Philippine Church Facades wrote:

The facade is built along neoclassic lines, dramatized by four sets of coupled Ionic and Corinthian columns, which support the triangular pediment. The bell towers provide balance and stability to the vertical orientation, in contrast to the semiarched main entrance and the statued niches of the first level. The rose window in the pediment enhances the massive design. A rectangular segmented opening provides ample natural lighting for the choir loft.

He continues:

Symmetry is achieved by vertical and horizontal movements, voids and solid spaces, and round and rectangular segments. Austerity is enriched by the massiveness of the adobe stone that is softened by a “sober spirit, no nonsense forms, and a sense of quite formality that characterizes the estilo Herreriano of El Escorial.”

Statue of St. Paul, left. Details of angels found at the top of the portal, middle and right. (not to scale).

The Church of S.
Atanasio dei Greci
in Rome. The facade decorations of San Agustin is very sparse except those found between the two belltowers where composite of Ionic and Corinthian columns and a few details decorations break the monotony. In between these columns are two statued niches. Two angels at the top of the portal can also be found.

In stark contrast to the almost plain facade is the highly stylized and massive carved portal. This portal always takes the viewers breath away.

Like the other baroque churches in Europe and Latin America, the composite columns don’t serve a structural function but more as ornamentation. Nevertheless, its still an elegant structure.

Chinese fu dogs/lions guard the portals and the patio of San Agustin: four located at the facade with one (not shown) have a broken part of the head, and two at the front entrance of the low fence around the patio. One figure is holding its baby while two other figures seem to be playing and holding a ball. These are interesting since these are clearly Chinese in origin but is part of a Christian religious structure.

There are only a few churches left in the country that still have these. To cite: Tayabas in Quezon and Sto. Nino and the Cebu Cathedral in Cebu. The same blend of the oriental and the occidental has been shown previously in the post about the facistol and misericordias.

One other notable element found at the patio is the low fence surrounding it. It is made of adobe blocks and bricks. The right angled style is not so common but can be seen in other churches like in Samboan, Danao, Ginatilan and Oslob in Cebu; San Vicente in Ilocos Sur; Piddig in Ilocos Norte. In most other churches where the original fence is still existing, these are of the wavy style like those found in Tumauini in Isabela; Argao in Cebu; Lucban in Quezon.

It is said to be made during the mid-17th century owing to its Rococo style. This portal is 20 feet high by 16 feet wide. One of the reasons for this massiveness is that carriages or carrozas, pass here during processions. Unlike other churches, this and the one found at the side along General Luna St. has no postern or postigo, a smaller door within this portal that accommodates persons passing through.

Details of the main door includes familiar Augustinian symbols: left, Saint Augustine; middle left, a close up of view of St. Monica, the mother of the saint; middle right, the bishops mitre and right, the pierced heart. These motifs can also be seen in the church doors in Hagonoy and Angat in Bulacan.

At the side of the church is another well carved but smaller portal. The motif are almost the same except for the saints that are carved on the lower part: middle, St. Rita of Cascia holding a skull and right, St. Nicolas Tolentine. Galende wrote that the last memorable time that these doors were opened was on February 1945 when Japanese soldiers let out 3,000 hostages. Before the war, newly weds are said to exit the church to their waiting car at this door.

During World War II, the occupying Japanese soldiers sawed off the lower right portion of the main door (archival photo at left taken shortly after the end of WWII showing American soldiers hearing mass outside the church) where they stood guard and gunned down whoever passes the patio. Now, one can still see the cut (circled in red) but can easily be missed if not seen closer.

However, unlike the facistol, choirstalls and some carvings inside the church, one cannot find a fusion of oriental with the occidental. East with West. Its purely a western interpretation by the two scenographers, Alberoni and Dibella who were commissioned right after they arrived in Manila from Europe.

The symbols of the four evangelists that can be found at various parts of the nave.

Additional details showing some trompe l’oeil found at the center of the nave (2, left) and at the sides (2, right).

Other details showing the biblical covenant (left) and a sacred host (right).

Also inscribed is the bell’s weight at 300 arrobas or 7500 lbs. It was only rung on very solemn occasions and in times of emergency. When the tower was demolished, it remained there until it was taken down and transferred to its present location in 1927. It now welcomes museum visitors at the antesala as one enters the museum.

The Nuestra Sra de Consolacion (right)was made in 1913 in the foundry of the country’s prolific bellcaster that time, Hilario Sunico in Sampaloc during the priorship of Fray Anselmo Corcuera (this information is inscribed on the bell). What got my attention are the dents as well as a still embeded slug on its surface most likely during World War II. This bell no longer hangs from its perch but sits on the window.

Another bell that suffered the ravages of war is the Sta. Rita de Casia (left) which was cast in 1896, just two years before the outbreak of the Philippine Revolution of 1898. Like the N. S. de Consolacion bell, it had many dents on its surface caused by bullets which is more than the latter. This is the bell directly facing the patio of the church.