The mortuary chapel in Calamba, Cebu City is notable for its stylized skeleton relief that finds no parallel in Cebu.

The cemetery and mortuary chapels in Cebu are not as grand as those in Iloilo and are in different degrees of condition with most having been renovated and one in near collapse. For purposes of identification, I should clarify the two: cemetery chapels are those structures that are within the cemetery perimeter. It was in the 19th century that churches complied with the king’s edict to relocate these away from churches. In more affluent towns, these burial places were fenced and a chapel was built either at the center or at the far end. The mortuary chapel are structures that were built typically within the church compound either beside it or infront. It was where masses were said or a wake was held.

In the island province of Cebu, the presence of these structures are quite rare and are usually concentrated in areas that were under the Augustinian order. In this post, I have included those that can be found only in Cebu City (Calamba), Oslob, Boljoon, Sibonga, Argao and Dalaguete.

The mortuary chapel in Calamba, Cebu City is impressive because it has the most stylized skeleton relieve anywhere else in Cebu.

Built in 1863, the cemetery chapel of Calamba is the only extant structure in Cebu City and it originally belonged to the parish of San Nicolas. Of all the structures found in Cebu, it has the most stylized and biggest skeleton relief found at its pediment. It has a crown on its head, a staff in its right hand and at its left, holding a box containing an hourglass.

There used to be a small bell atop it. Below the pediment, you have this array of skull and crossbones and at the top side of the portal is a pair of skull and crossbone medallions. A floral rosette (or is this a stylized wheel?) can be found at the sides. The date of completion is etched atop the door. This structure is built at the center of the cemetery but unfortunately, an ugly canopy that doesn’t harmonize with the architecture was added infront.

Dalaguete cemetery chapel in ruins

Dalaguete mortuary chapel beside the church

Located at the backside of the cemetery, the one in Dalaguete (left) is a ruined structure. Its roofless with debris and human bones scattered at its floor. It has a very simple facade. A finial is located atop a rounded pediment. No relieves are found.

The mortuary chapel on the other hand (right), located just beside the church, is quite impressive and doesn’t look like one. At first, I thought that this was a stylized belen (nativity scenes during Christmas) but at the back of the structure is a skull and cross bones relief. The facade originally have impressive carvings detailed with symbolism of the church, Christ and the Augustinian Order but because of the deterioration, they covered the parts with cement. Now, the rich details located below the fascia can no longer be seen.

Sibonga cemetery chapel

The cemetery chapel is located at the center but it is in such bad condition that it is in danger of collapsing. Vegetation has grown on almost all the external parts and if this will not be addressed, the roots will further weaken the stones. It is another different style, the only one with a dome. Curiously, it has two entrances at both facing sides.

Like in Dalaguete, open coffins with one still bearing a dried out corpse and bones are scattered at its floor. Niches have been filled and some have been enlarged to accommodate the bigger sizes of modern coffins. It’s a very much neglected structure.

Oslob cemetery chapel

Oslob mortuary chapel infront of the church

Oslob is one of three municipalities in Cebu that have both cemetery and mortuary chapels. The cemetery chapel is located at the back end of the cemetery and it’s form resembles that of Argao. However, niches have crept infront of it and a canopy was cemented that now mars and hides the architectural details of this structure.

The mortuary chapel is located infront of the church. It has the skeleton with a staff and hourglass relief at its pediment. Only the facade remains as part of the original structure.

Argao cemetery chapel

Argao mortuary chapel infront of the church

The cemetery chapel of Argao (left) is located at the far end. When I first saw this in 2005, it was in ruins with the roof caved. When I came back this year, I was surprised and happy to see that they have restored it.

The mortuary chapel, on the other hand (right) was recently “rediscovered.” It is a beautiful structure that has wonderful details at its facade and, like the cemetery chapel, has a relief of St. Michael. There used to be a structure infront of it that hid this chapel and with a revitalized tourism effort in the municipality, they have torn it down. I just hope that they will eventually clean the vegetation growing at the pediment. As romantic as it may seem it does weaken the structure and the roots will eventually damage the stones. A more detailed post can be found at the Cebu Cathedral blog.

A skeleton with a staff and an hourglass carved at the pediment of Calamba (Cebu City) mortuary chapel built in 1863

Cebu doesn’t have the impressive colonial era cemeteries of Iloilo. There’s no ornate polygonal cemetery chapels like that of San Joaquin, Cabatuan and Janiuay. Nor their impressive gates and entrances including that of Roxas City and Sta. Barbara. However, it does have its own surprises that would also delight lovers of these heritage structures.

Having gone around these areas for a few years now, I can’t help but notice the carved relieves of skull and cross bones lining the walls or skeletons, perhaps representing Death, carrying a staff and an hourglass decorating the pediment of the cemetery chapel. These two are quite common.

These cemeteries were built in the 19th century and those that are featured here are found in Cebu City and in the southern towns of Oslob and Boljoon which were under the Augustinian Order. In the north, I haven’t found these yet except remnants of walls like in Catmon and ruins of a chapel in Bantayan. There are also relieves found in a few other towns but usually these are just skull and cross bones.

Unfortunately, like the fortifications that still exists in this island province, these are in bad condition and are in danger of crumbling to oblivion or renovated and refurbished.

This is the second part of a feature on Augustinian built churches in Cebu covering six churches all located at the southeastern side of the island province.

Sibonga Church

8 The Church of Nuestra Senora del Pilar de Zaragoza in Sibonga is just beside the provincial highway a few kilometers after Carcar and precedes Argao. Like Carcar, the convent is not directly attached to the main church building.

Originally a visita of Carcar in 1690, it became an independent parish in 1830. The first structure was temporary and the current one was built and finished probably between 1868 and 1881. The convent, on the other hand was built much earlier.

The style of the church is Gothic. A high main entrance dominates the facade flanked with two massive bell towers. The decorations are quite scant and the facade simple with the rosette at the pediment the only interesting detail sporting the Augustinian seal in wrought iron.

Inside, early 20th century paintings by the famed Cebuano painter Raymundo Francia mesmerizes the visitor. The ceiling of the side aisles has a painted version of the Carcar coffered ceiling woodwork.

Argao Church

The interior too is rich with its ceiling paintings and baroque retablo while its pipe organ was brought in from Mexico.

Unfortunately, due to an uncaring parish priest, the centuries old main retablo was painted gold, one of the capilla possa, was destroyed and the ancient coral stone arch of the cemetery was torn down so that his vehicle can enter.

Dalaguete Church

Like Argao, the interior is richly decorated with ceiling paintings and a baroque-rococo style retablo that was added in 1802 – 1825. Two interesting details is the presence of a pair of facing tribunas, balconies located at the apse which is quite rare in Cebu’s churhces. It belfry also contains a clock, although not working anymore, another rarity in the province.

There are other interesting elements within the church grounds. A century old watchtower fronting it gives testament to its turbulent past when Moro slave raiders frequented the town. Now, this structure has been renovated. At the side of the church is also a small, probably, a mortuary chapel with bas reliefs. The coral stone arch at the cemetery is also memorable for it’s bas relief and inscriptions.

This church and that of Argao is similar in design from the form of the facade to the placement of the belltower as well as the attached convent that it is easy to confuse the two. Compared with the latter, the relieves are much simpler and fewer and the convent longer.

Boljoon Church

11 The Church of the Nuestra Senora del Patrocinio in Boljoon is one of the oldest churches in the province. The first structures were destroyed by Muslim slave raiders and the current one was started in 1783. Because of the threat of these raiders, the famous soldier priest, Fr. Julian Bermejo started to fortify this town by enclosing it with walls (the front wall was demolished by the Americans) and organized the townspeople. His series of watchtowers stretching from Carcar to Santander eventually repelled further raider incursions.

Nueva Caceres Church

It has none of the imposing and grand architecture that defines the other structures but nevertheless, its simplicity is its defining element. Originally called Ivisan, it was formerly a visita of Sialo (present day Valladolid, Carcar) in 1599, and was transferred to Boljoon in 1690. It only became an independent parish in 1877 through a superior Decree. Because of the lack of priests that time, it was administered by the parish priest of Boljoon.

This church and the convent was constructed by the famous soldier-priest Fr. Julian Bermejo, the then parish priest of Boljoon at around 1812.

Like the Augustinian built churches in southeastern Cebu, it was part of a defense network against the Muslim slave raiders. A reminder of this dark past is the presence of a watchtower behind the church which was then the corner of a defensive wall that used to enclose the church.

Oslob Church

13 Rounding off this series, is the Church of the Nuestra Senora de la Inmaculada Concepcion in Oslob. Like Dalaguete, it is several meters from the highway fronting the coast. The current structure was started by Fr. Julian Bermejo in 1830 and was finished 18 years later.

The facade is simple in design with no elaborate embellishments except for a royal seal at the pediment and a few finials above it. Its massive belfry flanks its left. Originally, it has five levels but the topmost was destroyed by a typhoon and never rebuilt. The convent is attached at its right. Fronting the church is a small chapel and the entire complex is surrounded with it’s still original fence.