In most old churches in the Philippines, the choirloft is situated at the far end of the church and just above the main portal. Carcar Church is no exception. Entrance is through a flight of wooden stairs at it’s left. A close inspection of the walls near these steps indicate a previous installation that shows a direct ascent up. Today, one negotiates a total of three flights.
Of all the churches in Cebu, Carcar Church differs for it’s breathtaking coffered ceiling at the lateral naves. The series of patterns done in wood looks simple but upon close inspection, the intricacy is stunning. Despite its simple and almot bare façade, the details on the ceiling does give a pleasant surprise to the visitor.
At one’s right directly beside the main portal, space has been cordoned off with a low open grilled partition with a twin entrance. This is the baptistry or baptistery. But is this the original location considering that a portion of the baptismal font was cemented and integrated into the wall, marks of renovations done?
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The church of Carcar has one of the simple yet beautiful interiors that I’ve seen in the country. It is one of very few, if not the only original edifice in the province that has three naves. The massive and simply decorated door opens below the choirloft to an interior 66 meters in length, 22 meters in width and 12 meters high at the center. Each nave is partitioned by an arcade with massive, around a meter thick, pillars that run all the way until a few meters to the presbytery.
Carcar Church is only one of three religious structures in Cebu that incorporates Muslim architectural features. The minaret like domes capping the twin belfries is it’s defining feature though it is also paralleled, to some extent, by the one in Naga. Not many people have gone up these parts but for the curious, going through the narrow stone steps from the choirloft are in for a delightful surprise. Make that three surprises!
The Catholic cemetery in Carcar is the oldest cemetery in the municipality. I haven’t got information when this was constructed but it might be 19th century as it is located far from the current church, following the decree of King Charles IV in 1787. It is still in use with modern niches tightly crowding any available space. It might have lost it’s original chapel but there are still remnants of the perimeter fence.
I was in Oslob over the weekend to check on the progress of the reconstruction of the burned church of Oslob and was happy to find that it now has a roof so that masses can again be said at this old structure. While this is commendable development, there is still much to be done. I asked Jun Tumulak, a member of the Parish Pastoral Council and he said that the total cost needed in bringing it back to a functional church complete with it’s flooring paved and tiled, pews, windows, painting, etc. is about P35 million.
The three tiered Graeco-Roman façade of the church of Carcar is simple yet elegant. While such style can also be found in a few other places in the country, it is not as severe as that of Talisay, a few towns to the north or Bacnotan, La Union in Luzon. The interplay of planes, arches and quiant details make this tall and compact church one of the unforgettable structures in this island province.
Carcar is located at the eastern coast of Cebu south of the capital, Cebu City. It is bounded by San Fernando in the north, Sibonga in the south and Barili in the west. It’s beautiful church overlooks the equally beautiful heritage town, the only one of its kind in the province with its many ancestral houses from different periods.
I visited the Basilica del Sto. Nino, the Augustinian convent in Cebu last 31 October to take photos around the church for a future post at my travel blog, langyaw.com. When I went out, I was surprised that the centuries old icon of the Inmaculada Concepcion (Immaculate Concepcion) of Oslob Church was just outside, encased in clear plexiglass and there were two long lines infront where people waited to come close and touch it.
Extant mortuary chapels in the country are hard to find. Except maybe if you are in the province of Iloilo where there are a few excellent examples. However, beyond that province and Cebu, there are also scattered across the rest of the regions but not all and I haven’t seen one from Mindanao. During my travels, I was able to find some that are now posted here.
My name is Estan Cabigas and I am a religious colonial architecture enthusiast.
An inveterate traveler, I have gone around the islands and marveled at the still extant religious heritage structures in the country.
More about the author and this blog.
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